Crested Geckos are very tolerable animals and have fairly simple care requirements. Below I'll be going over the basic notes every keeper needs to be familiar with to start keeping cresties.
Adults need a minimum of 30 gallons of space or an 18x18x24 inch (45x45x60 cm) tall enclosure.
(Front opening enclosures are recommended for ease of accessibility, as well as making the gecko feel safe as approaching from above is seen as a predatory behavior.)
The more space you can provide the better. Crested geckos are very active at night time and will use all the space you give them.
Younger geckos can be kept in smaller enclosures and moved up incrementally. For a smaller animal around 5 to 10 grams, we recommend having a 10 gallon front opening vivarium. See our breeding guide below for information on housing babies.
8x8x8 = 3 gallons
8x8x12 = 8 gallons
12x12x18 = 12 gallons
18x18x18 = 26 gallons
18x18x24 = 30 gallons
18x18x36 = 50 gallons
24x18x24 = 45 gallons
24x18x36 = 67 gallons
36x18x36 = 100 gallons
Crested geckos appreciate a variety of climbing opportunities.
Cork tubes, rounds and flats
Manzanita branches
Mopani wood
Ghost wood
Spider wood
Drift wood
Sanitized sticks from outdoors
Foam insulation tubes / pool noodles
Magnetic ledges
Make sure there are vertical or near-vertical surfaces for you gecko to sleep on. Floppy Tail Syndrome (FTS) is a condition in geckos caused by hanging upside down for long periods of time and is irreversible.
Substrate: Your common sterile substrates such as paper towel can work and are easier to spot clean. You can also provide a naturalistic soil blend which may help to stimulate your gecko, especially females. If you chose to go with a sterile substrate I would recommend having a lay-box for females as they can still produce infertile eggs without having been mated.
Amenities: Always provide your animal with fresh, clean and filled water dishes. While its not certain that every crested gecko will drink from a bowl, its better to provide it as an option so they can remain hydrated. Also have a feeding dish that you can fill with crested gecko diet. I use special ledges to keep them elevated but you can also just lay the bowls on the ground.
Parameters:
Temperature: The temperature in New Caledonia is fairly consistent, staying in the seventy to eighty range. Crested geckos can be kept at room temperatures from 72 to 78. No basking light is needed and providing one could easily cook your gecko alive. If your house is particularly cold, a low wattage heating bulb can be used with an appropriate thermostat to keep it from exceeding eighty degrees.
Humidity: New Caledonia also gets lots of rainfall, so its important to replicate the humidity of the forest in your crested gecko's habitat. During the day humidity should be above 50% and it should be allowed to spike up to 80 or even 90% during the night. A soil blend substrate can help promote humidity as long as it will not mold. Misting is required daily. We mist larger enclosures twice per day, once in the morning and once at night, and smaller enclosures once to avoid making them too damp. You can manually spray the enclosures with these misting bottles or you can buy an automatic misting system to set on a timer.
Lighting: While it is not completely clear what affects UVB may have on crested geckos, it can't hurt to provide them with low levels. For general lighting we use LED lights scheduled to come on at six a.m. and turn off at eight p.m. giving the geckos a fourteen hour photoperiod and eight hours of darkness.
Care:
Feeding: Crested geckos are omnivorous, eating a selection of insects, fermented fruit, and even smaller vertebrates. Commercially prepared gecko diets such as Pangea and Repashy are good to provide. Although your gecko can live with just the prepared diets, we believe insect are an essential part of a crested gecko's diet and should be offered with regularity. They'll eat crickets and roaches, but other feeders you should be cautious with. Mealworms and superworms are high in chitin which can be hard for them to chew and digest. Babies and juveniles should be fed daily while adults can eat ever-other day or less depending on the individual. We feed our breeding adults three times per week.
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